This is my Ms Pac-man arcade cabinet. I have been restoring it. I’ve got the front and right side painted now. I actually made the stencils myself. This video shows the steps I did to make my own stencils and apply them. There is actually three stencils that have to be applied. After you paint the blue. (1) There’s a yellow, (2) then the pink, (3) then the black. Here’s the side I haven’t painted yet. We’ll be painting this one in this video. This is the way it looks like originally when I got it. Someone had painted over the light blue with a little bit of dark blue. Other than that, the cabinet is in pretty good shape. The corners are blown out a little bit, there is no water damage. It just needs a good sanding and a little bit of bondo. I’m not going over preparing a side. You can see that in other videos. I’ve got it laid down here. And you can see some of the sanding I’ve done. And I’ve put some bondo in some of the low areas, including the bottom. The primer and paint as been applied. And it is all ready for the stencils. Here’s some of the supplies I’ve used and will be using for the rest of the project. Here’s the bondo I used. Just an automotive bondo. For the primer I used a Zinsser 123 plus. I also used some rollers. One with a nap for the primer. And a foam one for the paint. The three colors of paint I used are Sherwin Williams Duration Home. It’s a latex interior paint that’s semi gloss. I used a whole bunch of painter’s tape. I used a 12-inch transfer paper. That’s a medium tack and it’s clear. For the stencil material, I used Oramask 813 It’s in the 24-inch rolls by 10 yards. I used two rolls of that. And I used a High Volume Low Pressure automotive type sprayer. That I got from Harbor Freight. Used the standard Cameo Silhouette software to create the stencils. Here I’ve got a PDF (really JPG) that has the yellow part of the Ms Pac-man cabinet. I’m going to zoom in to the side I need. I broke the side into three different parts. The top, middle, and bottom. That way I didn’t have to cut huge long stencils. So, I’m going to bring up the trace tool here. And trace out the top part that I’m going to use. It’s okay if I have some of the middle one in there also. Then I set the high-pass filter and the threshold around so it looks like a solid two colors I also set the scale to 4. That will give me the finest resolution. Once I got it looking good, I’ll hit the trace command. Then select the PDF (really JPG) in the background and delete it. You see a lot of extra lines on here. I’ll have to erase those. So, I’ll select it. Get to the point editor. And start deleting points. The top yellow stencil is all ready to go. Now I will move over to the pink PDF (really JPG) and trace that one. I’ll do the same as I did with the yellow.
I’ll do the same as I did with the yellow. I’ll move down to the top part of the side art that I’m going to trace. I’ll pull out the trace tool. Then I get the trace box to try to include everything I want in the top stencil Don’t worry about too much about getting items from the middle one. We can delete that same as before. I’ll set the scale again to four. Which will be the finest resolution. And adjust the high pass filter. And the threshold until I get just two colors. Press the trace button And go and select the PDF (really JPG) background and delete it. And then go back into the point editor and start deleting points for all the extra items you don’t want. Now, Select it. Copy it. And move back to the tab with the yellow. And paste in in there. So now you have both the yellow and pink in there at the same size. Now you don’t need the pink tab anymore. So you can delete that one. And now you can find the PDF (really JPG) that’s got the black stencil map in it. Same as the yellow and the pink. Zoom in on the top of the side that I need to trace. Open the trace tool. And select the area that I want to trace. This time I’ll zoom in a little bit so that I can see how good I’m setting the thresholds. Set the scale to four again. Press the trace button. And go in and delete the black PDF (really JPG). Now this time there’s an awful lot of items that need to be deleted. So I’m going to zoom in so I can see all the spots that I need to delete. And I select the black stencil. Copy it over to where the other ones are located. And then align them all up. Since they’re all the same size. It’s a lot easier to work with if I color the templates they are. So I will select the yellow one. Make that one yellow. Pink one is already red, so that one’s good. Then I’ll select the black one and make that one a black color. I’ll select all the templates together and then group them. Then rotate the set so that the Pac-Man part is straight up and down. Now to scale all the templates to the right size. The line on the left (the long part) is 22.5 inches long So if I create a box and rotate it. That is 22.5 inches wide. I can then stretch the template. To be that same size. Now we can delete the measurement box. We don’t need that anymore. I will change the page size. So that we can cut this out. So it will be 12 inches wide by 35 inches long. (I typed 30) Then I’ll move the templates over so that it’ll cut just one strip out. Move over to my Cameo Silhouette I have to move the roller down (left).
I have to move the roller down (left). Because I’m going to be feeding in media by itself. I’m not going to be using a cutting mat. So I will take my stencil that I’ve already cut out. That’s 12 inches wide, 35 inches long (really 30). And load it in. You have to make sure it is really straight. Before I cut it out, I have to add some alignment guides. I found that rectangles work the best for this. The guides will allow me to put the two pieces of stencil together. As well as line up the stencils layer to layer once I start painting. Now I un-group the layers so that I can delete all of them except for the yellow. Then I go over to the cutting tools. Make sure it’s set on vinyl. And then cut it out. Now that this one is done, you can load it up with the second piece of stencil material. And then move your design over so that you can cut the next piece. Then go to the cut menu and press the cut button. The cutter doesn’t cut all the way to the left side. So you have to remove about three quarters of an inch with a scissors. Now I remove the parts of the stencil where the yellow paint will be. For the first stencil, you don’t remove the alignment rectangles. But, I can see them here and what I’m going to do is line up the two stencils so that the alignment rectangles sit right on top of each other. I want about a quarter of an inch overlap to tape them together. I’ve got a little bit too much. So I’m going to cut some material off one of the sides. I’m going to use my rulers to hold the material flat. So that I can easily tape them together from one side. I’m going to use left over stencil material to tape them together. I’m going to get out my transfer paper. And I’m going to lay this in the opposite direction to tie everything together real well. Now I’m going to turn it over and peal back a little bit of the backing paper over the seam And cause the to stencils to stick together. Cut off the excess on the sides. Now to align the stencil to the cabinet. I made some marks on the edge of the cabinet where the T molding is. That’s where my finger’s at right now. To show where the old line was at. And I’m just lining this one up with the same position. I’m using my T-square (really framing square) to make sure that the… line is perpendicular to the back. Now I tape the center of the stencil. So that I can remove the backing paper. Use my roller to smooth out all the bubbles and make sure that the stencil is sticking really good to the transfer paper. Then remove the backer paper up and to the tape. And cut the backer paper off so that you can stick down the stencil. Now I remove the tape and stick down the bottom half. Now that it is all stuck down, I’ll remove the transfer paper. I re-use the transfer paper as additional masking for the cabinet.
arcade lines I re-use the transfer paper as additional masking for the cabinet.
I re-use the transfer paper as additional masking for the cabinet. I’ll push down any wrinkles with my fingers. A couple of areas will keep popping up. So what I will do is slice the stencil. And then set it down. This is usually right on the very edges of some of the thinner spots. Next, I’ll mask off the rest of the cabinet and then start mixing the paint. I move the paint to a little cup that I can use to water it down before putting it into the gun I add about 20% water to the cup. This helps thin out the paint a little and get it through the gun a little better. Another thing I did was remove the filter that’s in the gun that’s right below where you put the paint in. This allows the paint to flow better into the nozzle. Just before spraying, I’ll re-roll the stencil down to make sure the edges are all pushed down real well. I’ll also use my hands to press them down as well. Test spray a little bit. Get the paint starting to flow. I notice that I’ve got an area here that I I forgot to put tape on. So I will tape this up real quick. I wound up putting two coats of the yellow paint on. This is just the first coat. It was pretty thin. You could see the blue through it. In fact, I wound up using just about as much yellow paint as blue paint on the entire cabinet. It’s the middle of winter here. The garage is really dry. So it only took a couple hours for the paint to dry enough so that I could take off the stencil. I did wait another day before I put the second stencil on. I wanted to make sure it was good and stuck down. One thing I have to do is to keep the alignment rectangles that I cut into the stencil on the cabinet so that I can use them for the next layer. I’ve got them hidden under the tape here and I’ll keep them on the cabinet and make sure that when I remove the stencil that my two alignment rectangles are still there. I remove the rest of the stencil. I’m going to skip ahead here to the final product. You can see I still got two little alignment rectangles. One’s there and one is over here. I do have some paint that came off. Some of the blue paint. I’ll have to fix that later. Now it’s back to the software to make the pink stencils. I’ll bring up the whole stencil set again. And this time I’ll un-group it and delete all but the pink (or the red) stencils. I’ll send it to the Cameo Silhouette for cutting And then move the design over and cut the other part as well. Just like the yellow. Took my two stencils and taped them together. The same as I did for the yellow. I’ve cut the alignment rectangles out this time. So that I could use that to align better with the layer below. I also did something different too. I cut a little of the backer paper off so that I could align the lines really well to make sure that they You can hear my Elektra pinball in the background. Once I got it aligned well to the yellow layer and then tape the center of it down. Same as the yellow. Then remove the backing paper up to the tape. Then cut off the excess backing paper with a scissors. The top one’s stuck down now. Let’s move to the bottom part.
The top one’s stuck down now. Let’s move to the bottom part. Remove the tape. Peel back the backing paper from the bottom half. And now remove the transfer paper. (Elektra) Prepare for the Gama Dimension. I use the transfer paper again to help with the masking of the rest of the cabinet. I finished masking off the entire of the cabinet to make sure there was no over spray. Now I’m pressing down the edges of stencil to make sure the paint doesn’t get underneath. I mixed up my pink paint. And got it in the gun. Hook up my air hose here. And spray. Now. What you’re suppose to do, which I am not. Is…. feather the trigger on the gun. If you pull the trigger part way down, just air comes out. Pull it the rest of the way down. Paint comes out. So what your suppose to do is at the ends pull back a little bit so let the paint stop but the air continues to come out. And then when you come back, pull the trigger harder again and then the paint starts coming out. That way you don’t get big blobs of paint on the ends. The paint took a couple of hours to dry again And I’m going to remove all the masking including the stencil. I want to be careful again to make sure my alignment rectangles stay on. the side of the cabinet. So that I can use them to line up the black. Go back to the software. Un-group all the items. Delete the pink and the yellow stencil layers. And all that’s left is the black. This time it will print out 12 inch piece of stencil material. I won’t have to tape anything together. I’ve cut out the black stencil. And now I get to remove the items where the black paint will show through. For the black stencil I cut the corners of the backer paper a little bit to help the alignment as well as the rectangles. Once it’s aligned, same as the others Put some painters tape right down the center to hold it in place. So that you can remove the backer paper one side at a time. Same process as before. I’m going to skip ahead here. Show what it looks like all stuck down. Skip ahead a little bit more. I decided to do the center and the bottom stencils at the same time. That way I didn’t have to mix the paint over and over again. Here it is after the yellow has already been applied I have the pink stencils put down now. And there is a lot of edges so i’ll have to press them all down by hand. I’ve got my gun in the other hand so that as soon as I got all the edges pushed down, I can spray. I’m having some problems with my gun here. I didn’t have the inner nozzle completely screwed in and some air was leaking past causing some bubbles in the paint and the paint to come out a little erratic. I didn’t figure this out until after I was done with the black. I let the paint dry for a day. Cut out my black stencils. and I have a lot of alignment marks on this one. to make sure I’ve got it on there just perfectly. And then I’ll tape this one down. I got the black all ready to go. Get my gun plugged in. The black one works really good. For some reason the edges stick down really well. I’m just going to go over the whole thing real quick. I got a lot of black paint in the gun. And I’m going to spray the top part first. After I got all the paint on the top part, I re-pressed down the bottom part and sprayed that as well. So here I am removing all the masking from the black and then it’ll BE ALL DONE. And here is a shot of the completed side.